One Hitching Post Town

note: so titled because I remember when there was a sign that read “Population 1” as you entered this little town with a big heart

Red (the official bear bait) and the Judge, were up and ready to go at the appointed time. We were going to explore Boulder country. The plan was to hike a bit, visit the waterfalls and drive deeper into the mountains. We might even eat at the Road Kill Café if it was opened that day. Our first stop would be the Post Office so we could mail our postcards back home.

The girls had not experienced a one hitching post town before. I don’t think they believed me when I told them the little town at one time had a population of one, not counting the dogs. The town hasn’t been included in the past few census records, but there is one teacher and seven students, probably not all residents of the town proper, that attend the little schoolhouse by the river.

It seems the Judge was fairly concerned about the eating part of our journey. She had enough cell signal to search her phone for “eating places in McLeod.” I told her there were no other places unless we stopped at a ranch house and joined them for lunch. She finally conceded and said, “The only place listed is the Road Kill. Why are there no other restaurants?” I told her, “Just wait and you’ll understand when we get to town.” About that time, I pulled off the road into an area where there was a house, a building that read, “United States Post Office”, with a flag flying in front, another building, and a camper or two behind the buildings. “We’re here.” “Where?” “This is McLeod.”

They giggled as we got out of the car. I think the Judge finally understood. It didn’t take long to explore the town. We chatted with the Postmaster and enjoyed the historical photos and items on the walls of the Post Office. An old wagon on tracks sat in the front of the building beside the Post Office. We walked down the lane and crossed over the bridge. A cool breeze blew through the cottonwoods that stood close to the stream. The white schoolhouse trimmed in green sat to the left of the lane. It almost made me want to be kid again, able to grow up in a one hitching post town.

Go West Young Man

“Go west young man.” When the West was expanding, pioneers looked to make their way in a new land. They were full of hope for the prospects that lay ahead in a land of opportunity. Some went west in hopes of striking it rich in the gold fields. Others looked to a world where land was plentiful. There is a certain fascination with the American Western culture that creates a romantic appeal in spite of the hardships of life in the rough and tumbling west.

A few years ago, someone mentioned the Booth Western Art Museum to me. I had no idea there was such a place here in the South. It wasn’t long before I visited the museum and couldn’t wait to take Daddy there on a day trip. After all, he was part of the Western culture.

We soon made the trip. The museum is fascinating! There are works of legendary artists. Permanent collections include the works of Remington and Russell. There is a Presidential Gallery which has portraits of every United States President that are accompanied by signed letters of each, and other memorabilia. The tribal cultures of Native American Indians are brought to life in paintings and sculptures. There are even sculptures made out of paper. 

Temporary galleries have rotating exhibitions, from ten to twelve a year. We had the privilege of being there when Ansel Adams’ phenomenal photography was on display. He was a highly gifted unparalleled photographer and environmentalist. On my last visit, the photography of Bob Kolbrener was on exhibit. Kolbrener continues in the pattern of Adams’ traditional “straight photography.” His artistic eye captured the western scenery and culture over a 50-year period. The purity of the black and white photos of both artists gives dimensional depth and detail.  I stood before both exhibits in wonder. 

The best part of the day was being with Daddy. Every exhibit we looked at brought a story of some kind. His love of history and love for the land of his birth made his face glow and his eyes water. He stood a long time in front of one of the statues of a cowboy outside the building. The accompanying plaque read, “Here, the rancher pauses for a moment of gratitude for having the basic necessities he needs to maintain his way of life.” Leaning on his cane, Daddy looked up at the rider on horseback, understanding that way of life. A moment of reverence was shared – one old cowboy to another.

My Sidekick

My Daddy was my sidekick for several years. Often, when I was off from work, we would go on an adventure. I got out my map, drew a circle with a hundred-mile radius from our town, and searched for interesting places within that radius that we had never visited. 

We took many day trips. Sometimes we would just go to lunch and take a ride through the countryside. Sometimes, others were able to join us. At least once a year in the fall, we would drive through the mountains to apple country to stock up on apples. We stopped at scenic overlooks and took in the gorgeous views. A few times a year, we went to “the Pocket” and hiked through the wildflower trails, and visited the falls. State Parks were a favorite place to hike a bit and have a picnic. (I think a picnic is an adventure all by itself.) We visited waterfalls and parks in Georgia, Alabama and Tennessee. We visited historic sites depicting the rich Indian history of the area, military parks, museums, the Planetarium, the bat cave, Reflection Riding, toured replicas of the Nina & Pinta, and had other fun excursions.  

Shortly before Daddy died, he said, “We’ve been lots of places together, haven’t we?” “Yes, we have.” “And I’ve enjoyed every one of them.”  “Me, too, Daddy, me too.”

Walking Dictionary

My mother was a walking dictionary. She knew how to spell everything. If any of us kids asked her how to spell something, her response was ALWAYS the same, “Look it up in the dictionary.” Well, if I knew how to spell it, I wouldn’t need to look it up in the dictionary!

“Hey, mom, how do you spell foneeshun?”

“Look it up in the dictionary.”

Like how would I find Phoenician? Or fuhzishun? Who knew!

Now a mom tells her kid, “Google it.”

Visiting with the Preacher

“Preacher, you go back and get that little girl.” The old lady wouldn’t let him stay and visit until he returned home and got that little girl.

Granny, as she was called by most, was an old Southern lady who lived in our small community. If Daddy had the sniffles or coughed in front of her, she would go off into the back room and come back with a dose of some magic tonic to cure his ailments. She would send a little bit home with him to finish the job. Apparently, the magic tonic contained moonshine or some other home brew. I imagine it was straight moonshine with a shot of honey.

There were moonshiners in that part of country who had stills hidden in the woods. The Sheriff received a tip about one in operation nearby. He stopped at the neighbor’s house up the road and asked the neighbor to go with him to check it out. They searched through the woods and finally uncovered the still. There among the bottles and tubes were some tools the Sheriff confiscated before he busted up the still. Maybe that evidence would identify the moonshiner.

The Sheriff didn’t know who the still belonged to, but our neighbor figured it out! Just a few days before, unbeknown to him, he lent his tools to the owner of the still. Needless to say, our neighbor did not claim ownership but instead went and bought new tools.

For some reason, the neighbor felt the need to tell his story to someone. Maybe he wanted to clear himself in case he was somehow linked to the “evidence” in the Sheriff’s office. He recounted the story to the preacher who was known to hold confessions in confidence. I guess his conscience was clear and he was satisfied someone knew the truth.

Hmmm…. I wonder if Granny was shy a batch of shine that year. Naaaaa, she had her own tools.

Dr. Grace Goes on a Grand Adventure

I received word that my friend, Dr. Grace (so dubbed by my sister and I), recently left on a grand adventure. She stepped out of a worn and fragile body lacking strength, vision and hearing, and must have danced into the realm of heaven shouting with joy as she went. I imagine she met up with my parents shortly after her arrival, bragging about getting there after 99 years. I can assure you, she livened the place up!

This lady was a precious gem. She was one of those rare few people who found something good in everyone. She was a voice for those who were separated by barriers created by status, poverty, race, philosophies of life, creed or religion.

Dr. Grace was aptly named, for grace is what she extended to others. She was a champion to the abandoned, a savior to the rejected, a teacher to those deemed unteachable, a friend to the untouchable, an advocate for those without a voice, a hero of many. She was not conformed to this world nor swayed by popular vote. She dared take a stand at a time when women hid behind apron strings and were told what their opinion should be. She associated with those shunned by poverty, race or even “sin”, offering them a hug of friendship, love and hope.

This special lady was a Doctor of Psychology at the University of Georgia, a theologian, artist, author, counselor, teacher of all ages, tutor, mother, and wife, among other things. She did not walk the halls of tradition, but instead opened doors of opportunity and change. She was wise, kind and non-judgmental. Even as a child, she peered from behind walls and around corners and rightly repelled the injustices she witnessed that society deemed as permissible.

Dr. Grace loved children. That deep love stemmed from a childhood of often feeling unloved and knowing from the start that she was different than other children and the society that surrounded her. She wrote a short book called, “The Child.” A quote from her book reads,


“Thou shalt not kill was not spoken of the body alone.
It also meant thou shalt not kill a child’s dream.”

Dr. Grace was a giver of dreams. Every child she met was valuable and she encouraged them to dare to aspire to reach for their dreams. Her tolerance, acceptance and compassion reached beyond the visible to chisel away the roughness to reveal diamonds of great worth. She knew hidden inside of each child was a treasure.

I was able to take my daughter and grandchildren to visit her a few months ago. We had a blast! She laughed and told them stories of my early years and of their mom when she was young. My life is much richer because of her years of friendship. I attribute surviving my teenage years to Dr. Grace. There is not space on these pages to express my admiration for Dr. Grace, but here are a couple of excerpts from one of her books that might help to understand why she was so special.

“My two boys, ages six and four, were playing in the sandbox with three other little boys. The sandbox was in the back yard not too far from the kitchen window so I could know what went on in their play area. I heard one little boy, not one of mine, say, “I’ve got the prettiest mama in Winterville.” Neither of my boys said a word. “I got the smartest mama in Winterville,” said another. Neither of mine said a word. “My mama can talk more than any-body anywhere,” the third said. I thought surely my boys would contest that! Not a word. There was a brief silence, then my oldest declared with great pride and triumph in my defense, “That’s all right; we got the only crazy mama in Winterville.” I smiled, no, I grinned, because I knew what he meant. He did not have the vocabulary to express his thoughts, but he knew his mama was different; his mama was fun; his mama did things the other mamas would not do, like camping out in the back yard, and looking for elves in the woods. Their mama was crazy and we liked it that way.”

“One of the children was watching the puppy eat his dinner out of his bowl on the kitchen floor. “Mama, what’s it like to eat on the kitchen floor instead of at the table?” “Why don’t we see?” So the child put his bowl of cereal on the kitchen floor close to the puppy and proceeded to try to eat without a spoon. He didn’t get much cereal, but made a serious mess. “O.K. Mama, now I know.” He was content to eat like a person. Only a crazy mama would let her child eat off the kitchen floor with a puppy. It was fun!”

Dr. Grace, thanks for the memories, the acceptance, love, and the joy you brought to me and so many others. May you have the time of your life! Well done!

“Speak up for those who cannot speak for themselves, for the rights of all who are destitute; Speak up and judge fairly; defend the rights of the poor and needy.” “Give her the reward she has earned, and let her works bring her praise at the city gate.”

Alaska Excursion

North to Alaska continued….    by my Daddy

This past Monday we flew back into warm and dry country – up to 100 degrees in the shade. It didn’t take long to wish we had some of that Alaska Weather that got up to 72 in the sun. (We only had one day in the sun. The rest of the time there was a cloud and fog covering).

In Seattle we met Betty from California, Donna Marie, her daughter, Linda, and Son in Law, Tom, from Wyoming. We rode a bus about 60 miles to Vancouver. Donna Marie was a talk guide. She had been raised near Seattle. Later she and Russ went to Vancouver. One time they flew up to parts of Alaska.

We boarded the tour boat at Vancouver and the first day we sailed along the Canadian coast until we reached the lower parts of Alaska, 600 miles north of Puget Sound. Our first stop was at Ketchikan which sits under steep mountains with a waterfront about ½ mile wide. Ketchikan might be as big as Big Timber. We went to a Lumber Jack show where an American and a Canadian Lumberjack put on a contest for us – chopping spruce logs in two, riding spinning logs in the water, carving with a chain saw and climbing tall poles. I think that 20 years ago Bee could have climbed at about the same speed. Then we took a tour bus through the mist and rain to Bligh Park about ten miles up the inlet where we saw numerous totem poles and a tribal meeting house. Our bus driver told us that one out of six adults in Alaska had a pilot license, and that the automobile drivers knew how to drive in rain and fog, but they couldn’t handle sunshine. The sun came out on our way back to town, and sure enough, there was a car wreck ahead of us and we had to take a detour.

The next day we stopped for a daylong visit of Juneau. My daughter and son-in-law took a cable tram to the top of the mountain ridge. Betty, Donna Marie, and I took a gander at the Juneau Alaska Museum which covered history, government, mining, fishing, wildlife, Indian, Russian and American culture, and all sorts of clothing, kayaks, sleds, hides, and furs.

The next day was spent at Skagway where Betty and I took a train through Dead Horse Canyon and on to White Pass where the Yukon miners lost horses and lives on the way to the Yukon gold fields. (I think that Barney Brannin hauled dynamite to mines out from Juneau and not from Skagway.) There were lots of clouds and fog on the west side of the pass, but the east side – where we entered Canada, was free of the clouds and fog.

We spent two days touring through the glaciers on Glacier Bay and College Glacier Bay. Saw whales, sea otters, sea lions and three dots that moved on the narrow shore two miles away. People said they were bears. But I have had dots in front of my eyes that moved faster and were called floaters. (However, they didn’t eat berries.)

We told our tour boat good-bye at Whittier – where all the town’s population live in one large high-rise apartment house. Then we rode the train past Anchorage and on toward Denali Park where we would stay two nights. A big part of the way had a bay inlet on one side and mountains on the other. We got a close-up look at some Dahl Sheep.

For miles we traveled through forests of white spruce, black spruce, birch, and quaking aspens. Any homestead along the route with a few houses was given a name. One place was named Montana. It was a bare open patch of about two acres that looked like the remains of a junk yard. About a mile further on a woman stood beside a cabin clearing and waved at us – Welcome to Montana. We didn’t stop.

When we entered the region of Denali Park, we couldn’t see Mount McKinley (Denali – “THE BIG ONE”) because of clouds and fog. As we got further north the trees were smaller. Some places the forest was Black Spruce, twelve to twenty foot tall – or shorter. In higher region the forest gave way to tundra.

On our tour of Denali Park, we got pictures of moose and caribou and visited some Athabaskan women who were selling their handmade jewelry. From Denali we went to Fairbanks. It is in a lower climate and has a wide variety of trees, gardens, etc. A river boat tour stopped at an Indian settlement where we saw a Native American salmon water wheel catching fish. A young lady was hanging them up on poles to dry. We saw reindeer, and dog teams, and fur tents. Some Eskimo girls modeled Eskimo clothing.

Flying back from Fairbanks to Anchorage at 30,000 feet, we got a good view at Mount McKinley. WHAT A MOUNTAIN THAT IS!
July 11, 2010

North to Alaska

Many of my adventures in life included my daddy. When I was just a kid, we talked about going to Alaska, along with my sister of course. He talked about us making the drive. It was quite a challenge to make such a trip but, nevertheless, we dreamed of the day when we could make it happen. As the years passed, time narrowed and it looked like that dream would never come to reality. Daddy got to where he wasn’t getting around as well and had to have assistance with a cane. I knew time was short. One day I told my husband I wanted us to fulfill that Alaskan dream. I approached Daddy and told him my plan. As usual, he was ready for an adventure. When I asked my Aunt to go with us, she said she would. Then Cousin Donna Marie got on board along with her daughter and son-in-law. I made the necessary travel arrangements for our Alaskan cruise and four-day inland tour. All they had to do was meet us in Seattle. What an adventure! 

Here is part of my Daddy’s recounting of our Alaskan trip from 2010:

I went to Alaska with my daughter and son-in-law, my 81-year-old sister-in-law, Betty, and my 82-year-old cousin-in-law from Wyoming and her daughter and son-in-law.  Luckily, I was on a tour boat, bus, or train most of the time because that 82 year-old-woman with long legs could have walked me to death.

We boat toured about the three hundred miles of islands an inlets and mountains that hang down from the main part of Alaska like a dog’s tail. In some of the inlets we saw huge glaciers dropping small icebergs into the Pacific waterways.  This made me wear two flannel shirts and a warm jacket and wish it would warm up to 60 degrees.  

Ketchikan, Juneau, and Skagway are small towns huddled on narrow water fronts along some three hundred miles of bays and inlets surrounded by straight up and down steep mountains. This is part of the Tongass National Forest which is the largest National forest in the USA. It stretches from below the Alaskan border below Ketchikan to Yakutat Bay. This may be the wettest place under the American flag, a place where annual rainfall is measured in feet and not just inches. It is a place of mountains, rain forest, 1,200-pound brown bear, and fish – salmon so plentiful the Haida people live well and find time to carve their legends and history on large cedar poles. This is still a place where tall cedar and spruce poles are carved with their stories of flying birds, animals and big nosed ancestors.  

I was raised in Montana, but I’ve been interested in Alaska. One of my aunts – the one who dropped me on my head when I was a baby – raised her five children in Alaska. My Aunt Tooie raised her five children along the waterfront in Juneau. The house they lived in has been dredged away to make a place where large boats can anchor.  Cousin Beth used to work in a courthouse there (she is now 87 years old and lives in Idaho.)  Betty and I ran through the rain and fog trying to keep up with long legged Wyoming Cousin and took in a very good museum.

One of the snap shots shows a house built at the waterfront on what looks like a wharf itself. Sid Brannin, my bronc riding uncle, traveled from Alaska to Montana like a yo-yo on a string. His two oldest girls, Sydney and Margaret, near 90 years old, are still in Alaska.

We had about six hours in Ketchikan and saw a lumberjack contest between a Red shirted Canadian and an Alaskan as they chopped trees in two, rode spinning logs in a pond, and climbed long poles resembling the White Spruce and  Sitka Spruce of the Alaskan rain forest which their lumberjacks topped off for their gin poles in their logging and skidding operations.  

I was raised at a sawmill and timber operation in Montana where one year my uncles rode saw logs floating down the Sweet Grass along the Rein meadow. They fell off just like the Alaskans did in their lumberjack contest.  Guest Author, my Daddy

To be continued…..

Saturday Night

My mother was not a tv person, but Saturday nights in the ’60’s were an exception. She loved Lawrence Welk. When Saturday rolled around, there was no question as to what would be on tv – The Lawrence Welk Show. She liked the band, the accordion being played, the champagne bubbles that floated through the air, the Lennon Sisters, other special singers and the dancing. I wonder if she imagined herself gliding over the dance floor, her full skirt twirling as her partner spun her around. 

Mama always liked music, not all kinds of course. She had a few favorite albums she played occasionally. It seemed she really liked artists that whistled or yodeled. I can still hear the smooth falsettos of Slim Whitman, the country yodeling singer, coming from the record player.

We often heard her singing, humming or whistling. I can assure you that we didn’t always appreciate it, especially early in the morning when it was time to get up.

My Grandma Wears Spy Glasses

It seemed like it took forever but I finally got the packet I ordered in the mail. I had sent away to Trailways for brochures and other information. Vacation tours. Bus schedules. Destinations all over the country. Travel bargains. Sightseeing tours. Adventures. I grabbed my treasure, ran up to my room, and soon had a map and brochures lined up on my bed as I dreamed of seeing all of those places. I was only 9 years old, but had big dreams. My mind traveled the country as I organized trips and made a list of places to see. 

Little did I realize at the time that I would do just that – plan trips with family and friends, and go on adventures near and far. I have been able to take some of those trips I dreamed of as a little girl.

Apparently, my four-year old granddaughter knows I like adventures, too! This story was illustrated and written by her. She knows her grandma pretty well! How about those pink spy glasses?