Traveling with my Tall Daughter

I have two daughters – a tall daughter and a short daughter. I gave birth to my short daughter. My tall daughter wears a wedding sapphire given to her by my son. I like traveling with both of my daughters.

Traveling with my tall daughter is always an adventure. In fact, my tall daughter adds extra adventure to our adventures. The last trip with my tall daughter was to Montana along with our spouses. We booked a room at a motel close to the airport since we had an early flight. It was rainy, cold, and dark when I got to the car early the next morning. My tall daughter stood at the back of the car with the hatch opened. She pointed to a pair of boots and said, “Do you notice anything?” “They don’t match.” They were different colors and it looked like they were different sizes, too. “Do you notice anything else?” “They are both for the same foot.” Well, I guess a new pair of boots would be the first order of business upon landing in Montana. That’s a great trick to get a new pair of boots! She makes the most of the opportunity.

A few years ago we went on a trip with some of the extended family and retraced the trail our ancestors took from New Mexico to Montana. We traveled down winding mountain roads, climbed through ancient cliff dwellings, and explored old family stomping grounds. Along Route 66, we stepped back into the ’50’s at the iconic Galaxy Diner. Before I could blink, my tall daughter was standing with the performing musician singing Rocky Top. She’s spontaneous.

My tall daughter is an Elementary School teacher. She is always seeking places of special interest that serve as teaching aids to her students. On the road through Utah, my tall daughter wanted to make such a side trip. As we wound up the road through the hills to Promontory Point, the white crusty Salt Flats in the valley below glistened like snow. On Promontory Summit we visited Golden Spike National Monument where the first transcontinental railroad was completed in 1869 when the Union and Central Pacific Railways met and opened up the west. After leaving that bit of history behind, we took back roads that led into Idaho and then into Montana. We met up with a newfound cousin, a fellow teacher who was quickly captured by the southern belle’s exuberance. She’s engaging.

There was one trip I took with both my tall daughter and my short daughter. We went to North Carolina to a conference. When we got to town, we went to the B & B we had booked. Upon arrival, we discovered that the hostess did not set us up in the rooms we had paid for. My tall daughter took charge and soon the hostess was moving out of the room that was supposed to be ours for the night. When my tall daughter is along, she speaks up for us all. She’s our champion.

I have been on various trips with my tall daughter. My husband and I have been “camping” with her and her groom in their motor home. We have visited various National and State Parks. We have traveled out west. We have traveled to Michigan. I have traveled with them in the winter across the frozen Northwest. We have hiked, picnicked, gone to weddings and family reunions or just gone out to dinner. She likes all kinds of adventures.

And – my tall daughter gives the best hugs!

GPS

A voice said, “Take the next left.” We took the next left. “Now turn right.” Hmmm. There was no right. We were in the middle of a graveyard. There was only a circle drive that went around the hill and back again. We got out of there! When we got back to the road the voice said, “Route (pronounced root) recalculation.” We drove a short distance and followed her directions around and around the round-about. After spinning around a few times I managed to break loose and head straight down the road. We found our turn-off and followed her directions. “You have arrived at your destination.” What? It was not even the right address! A man walking his dog confirmed our suspicions that the GPS girl was out to get us! We followed his directions and pulled right into the parking spot reserved for us. As soon as we got out of the car a sign warned, “Beware of bears!” Maybe the GPS girl was just steering us away from the bears.

Traveling with GPS as your guide can sometimes be dangerous. That girl that speaks through the car stereo will lead you astray. We’ve used her several times when we have roamed the back roads on our girl’s adventures. She has taken us miles from our destination and told us to turn where there was no road. We have stopped to try to figure out where we’re supposed to be and heard dueling banjos in “them thar hills.” The other day, we were on an outing and the GPS girl said, “Take the next left.” “Turn left now.” We were in the middle of a forest with a steep bank on the left. There was no road. There wasn’t even a deer trail. To top it off, it seems like every adventure we take, the GPS girl leads us to a graveyard. That’s very suspicious.

One weekend some of our family went to a wedding several hours away. Daddy was with us that trip. On the way home, my tall daughter turned on her GPS and gave us the directions home. Daddy piped up, “If you’ll turn left up here at the red light, go about 5 miles, turn right and drive awhile you’ll come back out on our road.” My tall daughter said, “We don’t need GPS when we have Granddad.” I commented, “We do have GPS – Granddad Positioning System.” He was the king of shortcuts, but he always said he knew where we were, “We’re right here.”

Where’s Granddad when you need him?

Sacred Spirit Village

I have visited many interesting places around the country, each with its own characteristics and culture. One such place was what some have classified as a hippie commune located in the Santa Ynez Mountains above Santa Barbara, California. The compound at one time was a sacred spirit village of the Chumash people.

It was later known as the Sunburst Community but is now called Flores Flats. “Flores” is a Spanish word that means “flowers.” That gives you an idea of the beauty of the area. My cousin has a lovely and unique home nestled there in the mountains among the Manzanita trees and other beautiful vegetation and foliage.

The residents there work together as a community. Their homes are made out of whatever is available. The homes without bathroom facilities share a community bath house. They often pool their resources and provide for one another. When I was there, we all gathered to share our evening meal. Someone grilled steaks, while others prepared fresh produce and bread. They rely on their gardens for food as well as a means to generate income. Many use solar power and live very simply. They have a connection to nature. Because of the age-old lingering spirit felt there in the mountains it is said, “the ancient people continue to nurture us all with contributions from their rich heritage and culture.” And so the ancient people continue to live on.

Buckhorn II

Anytime we meet up with Cousin Scottie, it’s a good day. He is a walking family historian with a genealogical chart as an appendage. I asked him once if he would will me his brain – or at least the family history it contains. He has been our fearless leader on more than one occasion, leading us through the trails of stories and history. 

The trip of 2012 was the first time I remember meeting any of my Wagoner cousins, though I had seen their folks several times. We met at Sapillo Creek, New Mexico. The plan was to meet there at the old site of the Brannin Ranch, explore the area, and then follow the route of the family exodus to Montana in 1895-96. Some of us had retraced that trail before.

After meeting, we all went to the Buckhorn Saloon in Pinos Altos for supper. We walked in the door and felt an immediate connection to the past. The dim lights, the long dark toned bar, the wall lined with bottles, the brick wall at the back of the room, the décor, and the wooden ceiling created an atmosphere characteristic of the old west era. Some of the family had already gathered. The young folks sat together and soon the cousins were well acquainted. We talked about our proposed route and got brushed up on some of the family history. Our food was wonderful, and the company was the same. It was open mic night and we got a rare treat. One of the cousins, only 13 years old, sang and played the guitar. His fingers danced across the strings and impressed everyone in the bar. 

decor to represent days past

We all enjoyed staying on the same piece of property where the old Ranch once stood. Sapillo Creek still runs through the property. One of the apple trees planted by my Great Grandfather also stands as a testimony to time. The old tree is twisted and weathered. I wish there was a magic camera on the tree that would replay all the events that took place over 125 years. We would see the uncles all covered in mud when they scared the Sunday wagon drivers; we would get a glimpse of Indians coming off Apache Hill into the Brannin yard asking for something to eat; we would see children playing in the yard; we would hear Stanton talk of the neighboring rancher’s threats; we would see the shingle maker in action; we would hear the one lie Guadalupe told of her heritage. Instead we must rely on the oral and written history that has been passed on to us.

Daddy beside one of the apple trees Grandfather Brannin planted

Our time in the area was much too short. One day, I hope to go back and stay longer to explore the area. Would you like to join me? I’ll meet you at the Buckhorn!

Buckhorn

Stepping onto the street in Pinos Altos was like stepping into the scene of an old western movie. It’s as if the tales of the Wild West came to life. Curtains of time rolled back as I stepped into the old saloon. The Buckhorn Saloon had its beginning in the 1860’s. The long bar bore scars from boot spurs and barroom brawls. I could easily imagine seeing my great grandfather and Old Moss sitting at one of the tables scattered throughout the saloon.

You can still get a drink or a sumptuous meal at Buckhorn as you experience the old west. Next door to the saloon is the Opera House that is still used as a performance venue. Musicians from all over play there. Just a walk through the Opera House is a memorable walk past historic photos, paintings and old artifacts.

Pinos Altos, meaning “tall pines,” is along the route from Silver City, New Mexico to Sapillo Creek. It is a fascinating drive. The road winds through the Mimbres Mountains, a gorgeous and unique igneous mountain range. Dense forests and deep canyons make the mountains look dark and ominous. In this ancient land of tall mountains, rivers, and high desert, you can still find evidence of the prehistoric Mogollon Indians who made their homes in the cliffs of these mountains. A visit to Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument allows a fascinating look at their homes and culture. This was also the land of Apache Indians. As settlers moved into the area, big ranch owners brought their own unrest as these cultures clashed. Some of my ancestors called Sapillo Creek home before they left that land of gunslingers and raids on their neighbors’ homes.

Along that same road my family and I witnessed a scene that I warrant have only been seen by a few, other than the rare occurrence caught on film by a wildlife photographer. Just off the side of the road we saw a bear on the other side of a fence. Then we noticed a doe laying under the fence at the feet of the bear. It appeared the doe tried to jump the fence but didn’t make it. Within a few seconds, the bear reached into the doe’s abdomen that had been ripped open and pulled out a fetus as we watched. It’s was unbelievable!

The Mimbres Mountains are still wild and full of undiscovered mysteries.

What Does a Cowboy Look Like?

Have you ever wondered what a real cowboy looks like? When I was a kid, I would’ve said he is short, stocky, wears a cowboy hat and cowboy boots, has bowlegs, eyes black as coal, and rides a horse. He looks like Uncle Sid!

Uncle Sid was the great uncle I knew best. If we went to Montana at rodeo time, we were almost guaranteed to see Uncle Sid. He tried to scare all the kids by making funny faces and wiggling his ears while keeping a stoic look in his Brannin eyes. You could see sunlight streaming through his legs as he walked down the street. Yep, he was bowlegged. How could he not be? He grew up on the back of a horse and rode in his first rodeo at the age of 14. Uncle Sid wasn’t very tall. He reminded me of one of the seven dwarves. When he traveled to Montana from Washington, he often carried his saddle with him. He must’ve been quite a sight loading his saddle in the belly of the Greyhound Bus before climbing into his seat.

Uncle Sid was a horse whisperer. He had a horse named Jughead. Jughead did anything Uncle Sid told him. If he said, “Stick out your tongue, Jughead,” that’s what the horse did. Jughead even counted on command. My sister and I had the chance to stay with Uncle Sid for a few days the year we made a three-month trip across the country. He took us horseback riding in the Olympic Mountains. He would see a mule in a field and call it a “jass-ack,” and he’d say things were “bass-ackwards.”  As we passed his neighbors’ ranches, they waved or called him over to give a diagnosis and treatment for sick livestock. He was the general vet for the area ranchers. He had a very impressive collection of saddles of almost every kind in his barn.  Cradles held the restored, oiled and polished saddles. 

 Uncle Sid took us on a ride in his truck. He drove about like he rode one of the bucking broncs in the rodeos. We had to stop and care for some cattle for one of his friends who was away. Some of the cattle had escaped from the fence. We rounded them up, closed the gate and rode on to Olympic National Park. There were signs, “No Dogs Allowed.” We jumped out of the truck along with Chuley, the dog. There were snowbanks that had not yet melted even though it was mid-summer. We walked through the snow to the trail below. A Park Ranger saw us and hollered at Uncle Sid. “Dogs are not allowed on the trail.” Uncle Sid, black eyes straight ahead, just kept walking like he didn’t hear the ranger. A bit further, the ranger called out again. We said, “Uncle Sid, the ranger said no dogs allowed.” He said, “I heard him.” I guess his pretense of ignorance worked. We didn’t get thrown out of the park. If you couldn’t guess, Uncle Sid was a practical joker. He was always up to some kind of mischief. 

We left Washington a few days later to make it to the Big Timber rodeo in time. Uncle Sid rode with us instead of taking the bus. We had a great trip! Being with Uncle Sid was always an adventure!

Oops!

I recently made a whirlwind trip to Montana with family over a long weekend. I had packed two small travel size containers of lotion. When I opened my makeup bag there was another little jar, unbeknown to me, labeled “Facial Lotion” that just happened to be empty. So, when one of the small containers of lotion busted, I put the contents in the Facial Lotion jar.

Though our trip was quick, we had a great time and spent several hours outdoors enjoying the cool clear air and sunny days. When I got back home, I noticed that I had picked up a bit of a tan on my face. That was a bonus. 

A couple of days later, it seemed that my face was getting even darker. I noticed a dark line on the edge of my hand. What was up with that? I had mixed some age defying oils (so they say) into my daily lotion but it had not caused any discoloration before.

This morning, I opened the small jar of facial lotion. As I looked in the mirror pondering my tan, I started laughing. It was then I remembered the facial lotion container was filled with sunless tanning lotion, not facial lotion. Oops! And so the mystery is solved!

The Old Cowboy

Though his vision failed, he still labored to read the book that lay on the table. The old cowboy rubbed his eyes, closed the book and rested his head on it.  His hair was disheveled with gray strands going in every direction. He roused when I walked into the room, more from sensing my presence than hearing it. Time had taken its toll. The old cowboy had become weathered with age.  His dim eyes drooped and watered. Though his mind and memories weren’t quite as clear, he still recalled old stories. The tales told time and again were ripe with adventure and history.

We talked for a while.  Then the old cowboy said, “What did you find in the mountains?”  It wasn’t his question that held my attention but his eyes. The weathered face softened, and his dim watery eyes seemed to awaken and dance with life.  Somewhere in the old cowboy was a young boy just learning to throw a lasso. Somewhere in the old cowboy was a teenager headed off to the front lines of the war.  Somewhere in the old cowboy was a spark of romance.  Somewhere in the old cowboy was a young man just starting a ranch of his own.  I gave high praise to the land of which he spoke.  I described the scenery, the fresh spring water, the rich green grass and the soothing of my soul from just being in such a place.  Like a newborn calf, life seemed to leap within him.  

His trips to the Eden in the heart of the mountains were fewer.  It seemed that part of him longed to see it again with young eyes.  The days of riding horseback through the mountains had passed.  Though he could not go himself, he reveled in the stories of others – those who shared his love of the mountains. His failing vision and bent body did not erase the memories of so many years.  His dim eyes clearly saw the mountains from his memories.  His muted ears heard the mountain streams that made their way over river rocks and bounded down the slopes and through the valleys.  His dulled senses felt the fresh breeze that whistled through the trees and tugged at his hair. 

The droopy dampened eyes, gray disheveled hair, stooped walk, stumbling feet, muted ears and fading memory did not hide the little boy I saw sitting before me.  I saw a little boy thrown into manhood. I saw compassion and understanding.  I saw someone who had experienced the hardships of life.  I saw someone who had seen death.  I saw life ignited by that which he so loved.  

The old rancher, a genuine cowboy, the last of a dying breed, gave a strong embrace as we said our goodbyes.

Quotes of John Muir

John Muir is known as “John of the Mountains” and “Father of the National Parks.” He was a naturalist, an advocate for the preservation of our country’s wilderness, a writer, philosopher, and a pioneer of our national park system. “The Mountains Are Calling and I Must Go.”

Chasing Outlaws

Two men tumbled out the door of the saloon. Shots rang out in the streets of Melville, Montana. Deputy Joseph Brannin fell dead to the ground. Mel Jowell was on the run. The Sheriff formed a posse and was soon on the trail of the outlaw. Less than a year later, another posse chased Jowell after he escaped on the return trip to prison after testifying at the trial of his accomplice. A trail of crime followed Jowell to Elko, Nevada.

Joseph Brannin

We grew up hearing true life stories just like you’d see on the old TV Westerns. In fact, the last time Jowell was seen by any of our family was on a Western movie set in California. Cousin Clancy, nephew of Joseph Brannin, was a Western movie actor. When the “extras” rode onto the set on horseback, Clancy spotted Jowell. He asked, “Where’d you learn to ride?” Jowell responded, “Melville, Montana.”  They recognized each other but Jowell didn’t stick around to spin yarns about Melville days.  Through the years that followed, rumors were heard but no definite answer was given as to what had transpired in the life of Jowell. We took up the chase and uncovered interesting stories and documents. After years of prison and life on the run, Jowell returned to his home state of Texas, married, had a family and lived to a ripe old age. 

Just like another posse in pursuit of Jowell, the trail led us to Elko over 100 years later. Passing the city limit sign brought excitement as we anticipated uncovering part of the mystery that shrouded the outlaw. After a bite of breakfast at the Coffee Mug, we walked to the Elko County Court House.

Our search was for legal documents that hopefully would give details concerning Jowell. The clerk was amazed hearing our brief account of the events we knew. We told about the day Joseph Brannin was killed, of Jowell’s escape and capture in Arizona, of the trial and sentencing to 22 years, of the trial of Ricketts where Jowell testified, and of the return trip to Deer Lodge on the Northern Pacific #41 Train. The lady’s eyes got big when we told of Jowell’s escape from the toilet window of a moving train near Pipestone Springs while handcuffed to another prisoner just prior to his appearance in Elko. We explained that it was obvious the escape was orchestrated.  Records indicated that Harvey Whitton was one of his “friends” who aided his escape after Jowell jumped from the train. That name soon took on an even greater significance in the story.

The clerk presented a ledger that contained records for 1912, but the name of Mel Jowell was not listed under any of the various spellings of his name nor his alias, Dalton I Sparks. So, where was he? How could there be such a discrepancy from the articles we had uncovered? 

Feeling a bit dejected, we made our way to the library. There had to be something we were missing. We began searching through newspaper articles for 1912. Bingo! That’s why we didn’t find him! He had another alias of Rex Roberts. Armed with new artillery, we went back to the courthouse. Out came the ledger again, and there he was – Rex Roberts and his cohort Jim Ross. Come to find out, Jim Ross was also known as James B O’Neal and Harvey Whitton, a hardened criminal who had been with Jowell in Montana State Prison in Deer Lodge. 

The clerk asked if we knew how to run a microfilm reader. Yep! She gave us the reels and free rein to use the reader that also had the ability to save documents as PDF files. Out came a trusty Flash Drive! We were able to access the complete court case and other documents attached to that file. We hit pay dirt! 

A few days later we were on Pipestone Pass near the area where Jowell had escaped from the train. We followed back trails over the mountain into the rough and rocky wilderness expecting to see outlaws peering from behind the rocks. A few days after that we were at Sweet Grass County Courthouse photographing court documents of the trial of Mel Jowell. Driving through the little town of Melville, I could almost see Jowell and Uncle Joe tumble out the door of the saloon and hear a shot ring out. And so began the chase of an outlaw. 

 In brief, Jowell and Ross were arrested for horse stealing. Jowell served time in Nevada before being returned to Montana State Prison where he served only part of his sentence before he was pardoned by the Governor of Montana.